In the early days of my father’s career, he was based in New Orleans. It was in The Big Easy that he developed the habit of seasoning many dishes with pepper-packed vinegar. He sprinkled it on beans ...

Crunchy and stuffed with juicy shrimp, pork and vegetables, these rolls make a great appetizer or side dish. For a milder dipping sauce, you can substitute serranos for the Thai chiles and seed them.