IT’S MORNING at Kooyooe Pa’a Panunadu, or Pyramid Lake, in Nevada, and I’m fly fishing for the biggest cutthroat trout in the world. It’s my first time at the lake, and I’m here with Autumn Harry, the ...

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There’s a moment, usually sometime around midsummer, when the dream of a perfect Nevada lake getaway collides hard with reality at Lake Tahoe. Traffic crawling for miles. Parking lots full by 9 a.m. A ...